What does Egypt look like without Russians

For a long time I postponed the story of my trip to Egypt, which was closed to Russians. This was in the spring, before the terrorist seized a flight from Cairo. The Kremlin has established contacts with Egyptian colleagues, and it seemed that air traffic was about to resume. But as the ray of hope faded, it was time to show what the most popular Russian resort looks like without our tourists.

Hurghada resembles an endangered town. Empty streets, malls and cafes, small shopkeepers were on the verge of ruin. For six months, dozens of hotels have closed. For example, SeaGull, in which thousands of our compatriots stayed during the season. In general, the tourism market collapsed in Egypt by 65 percent, which dealt a powerful blow to the country's economy.

Charters to Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada no longer fly. But you can get to the lands of the pharaohs and pyramids if you fly through Istanbul.

And it looks like Marina Street - the most expensive street in the city where rich Europeans settle. It is located on the first line near the tourist port. Two-room apartments with 100 squares cost an average of half a million dollars. When we arrived to inspect the promenade, there was not a soul.

The cafe, named after the revolutionary, is also empty. There are only cats that have long dominated Egypt. Keys brought to Hurghada by Europeans. Then the white people began to get bored with pets and they threw them out into the street. Small predators prone to breeding quickly flooded the urban space. Therefore, do not be alarmed if you hear rustling in the trash can in the evening. So another four-legged is looking for a dinner in scraps.

The port next to the mosque of Abdulhasan Elshazi (the main attraction of the resort) lives its own life. Every day, fishermen go to sea in rusty vessels. Indigenous residents of Hurghada recall that their grandfathers earned their livelihoods by fishing. Therefore, when they become completely ill, they will remember the past and be able to feed themselves.

Egypt is incredibly contrasting. The most expensive Marina street is adjacent to the slums, where goats walk on the roads, and children play in a pile of garbage. I wonder what happens in the heads of representatives of the lower classes, when they follow from the window the life of millionaires?

Local branch of the Federal Bureau of Investigation :-) It seems that because of the crisis, it had to be closed.

We look into the slums or "goat street", as it is popularly called. Hurghada residents have eternal relaxation. Local Mahmuds in Galabey rest on a ragged pedestal. And where to rush? There are still no tourists!

On the "goat street" uncomfortable, as in any poor area of the world. Graffiti, rusting huts, piles of rubbish on the pavement, abandoned construction sites. Although I did not have a sense of danger for the camera or wallet. Firstly, there are a lot of military bases around the town, and on the streets regularly there are roadblocks with machine gunners who keep watch over the order.

Secondly, Arabs are inherently curious. If bandits pester you on the street, then just scream. The locals will flock to the noise and help you get out of the mess.

Trash cans do not add aesthetics to the streets. Although the poor neighborhoods are captivating with their color.

“I also dreamed of becoming a football star, but it didn’t work out,” he told us. “See this guy? This is my Palestinian friend, it was he who first treated me with hash. It’s not a problem to get him if you know who to ask.” so that my son would not see what I saw. He was a good boy and played on the football field, and not in the gateways. "

Barefoot children are trying to dig a treasure in the trash. Ghetto.

Young biker:

Poverty does not prevent the Egyptians from rolling luxurious weddings. Relatives erect a hefty tent and pull garlands between the houses. On such days, the whole street walks, the whole area does not sleep.

Prior to the take-off of the dollar and the terrorist attack, 20 thousand Russians lived on the Russian side in Hurghada. Most of them settled in the Russian quarter of El Kauser, which is considered to be elite. The apartments have baths, not showers, annoying many of our compatriots. And in the courtyards of the houses there are pools. On the roofs are gazebos.

Many Russians created families in Egypt and started a business. Now he is in a difficult position.

The owner of the Play Kite station, Alexander Vashlyaev, moved to Hurghada from St. Petersburg 13 years ago. Before the crisis, he had no end to his students; 50 tourists could visit the station a day. And now several people are taking kiting lessons at the same time - and even this is better than nothing.

The salary of instructors fell 5-7 times (from one and a half thousand dollars to 300). Enough to rent an apartment. People survive due to old accumulations.

Someone will say: “Just think, let them return to their homeland and settle down in Russia! Extra working hands will not hinder the country's economy.” But for a moment in Hurghada their lives, children are placed in schools, money is invested in business or real estate. How can you just quit all this?

Russian girls often complain that gentlemen rarely give them compliments. They don’t notice new hairstyles, they don’t say how a new dress suits them. In Egypt, this will not be a problem :-) A woman here is always in the spotlight regardless of body size, clothing and nationality. In the center of mercantile and vulgar attention. Get ready for the fact that the Arab loudly and relishly discuss in your native language all your charms, compared with what - "hey, beauty, what a peach!" - it will seem to you baby talk.

They stick to everyone except the girls in the hijab. According to Madame Chazley, this is not a tribute to tradition, but an elementary instinct for self-preservation. If a man forced his wife to wear a veil and niqab, then he could easily turn out to be some kind of bearded orthodox Muslim. With a bunch of the same bearded friends. If the wife complains to him about the disrespectful behavior of the conditional Mahmud, then this whole bearded clan will come to Mahmud in the yard. And only horns and legs will remain of him.

Of the Egyptian dishes, I tried Kushari. Prepare it from pasta, lentils, onions, garlic and chickpeas. Separately with a side dish served spicy tomato sauce.

I was afraid to try strange sausages, similar to guts.

My guide Madame Chazley advised against buying bread in street shops. At first I did not understand why, until I saw how merchants relate to cakes. The picture looked like this: a young guy dragged trays of pastries from a pickup truck, pinching the phone with his shoulder. He threw them on the table. From the blows, one or two cakes fell on the asphalt. The seller picked them up and, without even shaking it off, threw them back onto the counter.

CUSTOMER ORIENTATION in Egyptian:

In general, Hurghada is like a place firmly stuck in the bottom of Groundhog. You can walk along Sheraton Street, and then come back in a year, and everything will be the same. Souvenir shops, cafes, departments with jewelry. And the same barkers will lure you into their departments with the same tricks.

Without Russians, it became much harder for Egyptians to live. Profit margins fell 90 percent, but they are not depressed. Though they ask Allah every day that our people return quickly.